Historic Hood River
North Side Climbing Routes
11-13-2020
Notes
I’ve seen a few of these annotated photographs of climbing routes on Mt. Hood before, but a friend of the site sent me a set of five which show the mountain from every side. Does anyone know which route the Legion climbs took?
Charlott
Generally they took # 2 which was the Cooper Spur Route, right up through what is called the Chimney.
JKG
First (Recorded) Ascents (According to Oregon High):
#2: 1891–Will and Doug Langille
#3: 1873–Doane, et al
#4: 1892–Langille and Graham
#5: Unknown
#7: 1936–Lincoln. Most commonly known as Cathedral Ridge, Pulpit Variation.
#10: 1928–Weygandt and Emmons
#11: 1938–McJury and Leuthold
L.E.
I like Horseshoe Rock. Looks like a horseshoe.
James
Well I’ve only climbed #2 and #4, on this side of the mountain. I’ve climbed the south side many times, and Sandy headwall once too. Phew, I’m tired of climbing now. The Legion climbs mainly did #2, the easiest on this side of Mt. Hood. Notice where the circled #2 is, and then on up into the narrow chute, this area is a bit dicey, especially if you fall. The fall line carries you down and to the left (we call this route the Chisholm trail), into the bottom regions of the Eliot Glacier. Some have died in this fall, but I have a friend that took the Chisholm trail and lived to tell about it. Jerry is his name…..one is lucky to survive the Chisholm trail…..!
Edward
I know that Mark Weygandt climbed long before it was recorded, as he climbed over 500 times in his life.
Stever
Hello – So pleased a shared image is appreciated. Re Weygandt – look how this prior pic content has developed with such depth over the years. Way cool
! https://www.hoodriverhistorymuseum.org?showimage=1994. – HHR friend Steve
nails
Would love to see a side by side of present day photo beside this one, with dates. Any chance that could happen? I grieve for the loss of our glaciers.
L.E.
I have been looking for the name Doane, which JKG connects to Route 3. I can’t find anything about that name and Mt Hood.
But while looking I came across this little bit:
From the University of Michigan Alumni News:
The year is 1971. The accident happened in the Chimney.
HARRY B CARSON, who was graduated from the U-M forestry department in 1955, and his 12 year old son were killed Aug. 8 in a 1,000 foot fall while climbing Mt Hood in Oregon. Mrs. Carson, who was in the Literary College here in 1954-55 was injured as was the other member of the family, 13 year old Harry Carson, Jr. The family lived in Parkdale, Ore."
Wikipedia has a Mt Hood Climbing Accidents page. Many of the accident locations are at places on this map.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mount_Hood_climbing_accidents
Jeffrey W Bryant
The accident list does not include my friends, Dan Owen and Stuart Picking, who died on the North Face 9 August 1978. I had climbed the south face with them in July 1978, along with two of my brothers and other friends. Dan Owen was a wilderness ranger by day, and climber on days off, having summited various Cascade peaks 21 times before his 21st birthday.
George
So tragic, but Owen and Picking should not have been on that route. Pickings father hated that mountain afterwards and from what I have heard blamed the mountain for it…………… Sadly, once again, poor choices were made.